July 10.1
(waves, no seagulls) An undertow is a steady offshore-directed second-order flow, i.e. it is proportional to the wave height squared. Meaning: No wave can arrive completely without also leaving. It will always contain some percentage of its own opposition, no matter how it tries to keep it down. You are a physicist, and so of all people should understand compensation, that a wave’s nature is intrinsically antagonistic, and that any assumption of linear behavior, at […]